Xolani Mawande is the fashion brand you should keep an eye on
Xolani and Mawande went to Learn to Earn in Khayelitsha to learn the basics of sewing before starting their own business. With just a R450 loan, they set up shop in a tiny shack, using a ceiling board as a cutting table. In 2012, they launched Xolani Mawande and were soon given the chance to make matric jackets and tracksuits for a nearby high school.
GQ had a chat with the founders of Xolani Mawande is the fashion brand you should keep an eye on to talk about their clothing brand and the valuable lessons they've learned along the way.
GQ: What inspired you both to pursue a career in fashion, and how did you know it was the right path for you?
Xolani Mawande: We’ve both had a passion for fashion from a young age, though in different ways. Xolani’s love for fashion began when his mother would neatly knit jerseys and hats in her spare time after work and on weekends. For me, Mawande, it was growing up with my grandmother making beads, coupled with watching TV and variety shows, that sparked my own fascination with fashion.
GQ: Can you take us back to those early days at Learn to Earn in Khayelitsha? What were some key lessons you learned there?
Xolani Mawande: The only thing we gained from 'Learn to Earn' was three weeks of sewing machine lessons, which is why we had to teach ourselves everything else—from pattern making and design to the business side of fashion. That’s why we proudly call ourselves self-taught fashion designers.
GQ: How did you turn a R450 loan and a small shack into a thriving business?
Xolani Mawande: Xolani had won a sewing machine from the school for being the top student in the Learn to Earn program. We needed the R450 to create samples, allowing us to approach schools and collaborate with them before diving into our fashion design business. This experience was crucial in helping us understand the ins and outs of the fashion industry, equipping us to manufacture garments properly and navigate the business side of fashion effectively.
GQ: What challenges did you face in the early days of XM Creation, and how did you overcome them?
Xolani Mawande: We faced many challenges, from building a clientele to understanding the business of fashion, but the biggest hurdle was earning people’s trust. Being from Crossroads, one of the most dangerous townships, made it difficult for people to approach us for garments. They admired our work on social media, but the moment they found out where we were based, scepticism set in.
To make matters worse, just as we started gaining momentum, people in our own neighbourhood assumed we were making money. That’s when we got robbed—they took almost everything: our phones, laptops, and essential equipment—forcing us to start over from scratch. But we refused to let setbacks define us. Instead, we found ways to meet clients at their homes, making sure our business didn’t stop just because of what happened to us.
GQ: How did the opportunity to make matric jackets and tracksuits for a high school impact your business growth?
Xolani Mawande: It helped us a lot because we used that money to support the fashion side of our business. It allowed us to teach ourselves, buy secondhand jackets, take them apart, and reassemble them while also getting the essential materials needed to start a fashion brand. We also used some of the money to purchase leftover fabrics from shops in town and experiment with silhouettes we weren’t entirely sure about. Overall, it played a big role in helping us refine our skills in fashion design.
GQ: What does the name "XM Creations" mean, and how does it reflect your vision?
Xolani Mawande: Xolani Mawande, formerly known as XM Creations, is a fusion of our first names—Xolani Magadla and Mawande Mbawuli. We chose this name to give our brand a strong identity, as everything we create is rooted in our personal experiences. For instance, I was born and raised in a township in Cape Town, while Xolani grew up in a village in the Eastern Cape before moving to Cape Town later in life.
GQ: How would you describe the design philosophy behind Xolani Mawande?
Xolani Mawande: We are a sustainable and vibrant brand that shares stories through our collections and fashion projects—whether they reflect our journey or those of the people who have grown with and around us.
GQ: XM Creation caters to a diverse clientele. How do you approach designing for such varied audiences?
Xolani Mawande: We’ve come to understand that fashion is personal—everyone has their own style and approach. That’s why the same piece can be styled in completely different ways. As a brand, we embrace this diversity. Having a wide range of clientele doesn’t mean we need to create separate statements for each individual. A single suit can resonate with five different people, each wearing it in their own unique way. That’s why, to this day, we stand by the belief that fashion has no gender.
GQ: What role does community and local support play in your success?
Xolani Mawande: What has helped build up our rent weight right now is the incredible support we've received from people at large. Most of our clients come to us through word-of-mouth, and we're grateful that so many say, "I heard about you from this person—they highly recommended you."
GQ: What was the first design or project that made you realize your business was taking off?
Xolani Mawande: It was when people started regularly approaching us for garments—whether it was a Matric ball dress or a graduation suit—and trusting us to design their occasion wear instead of bringing reference pictures.
GQ: How do you balance creativity with the business side of running Xolani Mawande?
Xolani Mawande: By ensuring that the garments we create are both cohesive and wearable. While it's important to showcase your artistic side, your clients should still have pieces they can wear daily—this not only enhances their experience but also boosts your sales.
GQ: Who or what are your biggest influences when it comes to design and fashion?
Xolani Mawande: African storytelling, sustainability, and the vibrant, diverse tribes of Africa.
GQ: What advice would you give to aspiring entrepreneurs with limited resources?
Xolani Mawande: We’d advise them to start with what they have, do what they can, and build from there. Most importantly, they shouldn’t be afraid to ask for help. We speak from experience—as a designer duo, we’ve never shied away from asking questions. In fact, we used to ask Mzukisi Mbane of Imprint for advice every time we saw him.
GQ: If you could go back in time, is there anything you would do differently in building Xolani Mawande?
Xolani Mawande: We don’t really think so, because we believe our journey unfolded this way for a reason.